1956- Gordon Parks documented the everyday lives of an extended black family living in rural Alabama under Jim Crow segregation for Life magazine’s photo-essay “The Restraints: Open and Hidden.” (via)
It’s still there but underground or they try to make it invisible…
We will never forget
If this isn’t about race, why are racists donating to darren wilson?
Part 2 of the the bespoke fitting for DS
Continuing from the part one…(http://subskin.tumblr.com/post/92706070492)
Apart from the minor adjustments here and there, I am readjusting the collar for a tighter fit around the neck of DS and ultimately for a better overall balance (mainly for the front panels of the jacket). After I have done that I decide to lift the back panels for the correct front to back balance of the jacket: tighter fitting collar lifted the front of the jacket and the back needed to be lifted as well to be balanced correctly. I will compensate the length of the jacket at the hem, front and back).
This is a first commission by DS (second fitting) and everything that we adjust on the fitting garment will be also adjusted on DS’s paper pattern too.
Part 3 to be continued…
P.S. it seems the captions are only visible on the desktop brower not on mobile devises such as iPhones and iPads… Strange…
Balance + Shoulder fit
We at B&TAILOR spend most of our time getting the fit of the shoulder and the balance of the jacket right, during fittings (especially at baste and forward fittings).
What I mean by the shoulder fit? The shoulder of the jacket being laid at an angle perpendicular to the ‘overall’ angle of the wearer’s shoulder, and this angle is not 2 dimensional. It also has to account for the wearer’s clavicle shapes and positions but also adjoining flesh and its position and angles in respect to the rest of the upper body. Any bumps or hollows will have to be also accounted for and smoothed out the best they can be.
The balance of the jacket does not simply mean that either end is too short or too long (that is only one of the consequences of the incorrectly balanced jacket). The correct balance is achieved, in a simplistic sense, when a jacket is in perfect balance with the wearer’s stance, perfectly accounting for his or her posture (forward, back or neutral) and the body contours- so that the jacket sits squarely and firmly on the wearer from the collar to the shoulders to the rest, and all the panels of the jacket is in the right angle/position to the body.
The main reason that we do fittings is to achieve the above plus the sleeve pitch (will be discussed on a separate post) right, every time and all the time - one of the main differences to MTM garments that are pre-made.
I have described the both shoulder fit and the balance in a way that I personally think that it would make sense to a lot of people however there are many more aspects of the fit and balance that warrant further discussions (for people who are more interested in such topics).
I am planning to illustrate the above in more depth with actual baste fitting examples in future.
Great thoughts about suit balance for all the nerds out there