If this isn’t about race, why are racists donating to darren wilson?
Part 2 of the the bespoke fitting for DS
Continuing from the part one…(http://subskin.tumblr.com/post/92706070492)
Apart from the minor adjustments here and there, I am readjusting the collar for a tighter fit around the neck of DS and ultimately for a better overall balance (mainly for the front panels of the jacket). After I have done that I decide to lift the back panels for the correct front to back balance of the jacket: tighter fitting collar lifted the front of the jacket and the back needed to be lifted as well to be balanced correctly. I will compensate the length of the jacket at the hem, front and back).
This is a first commission by DS (second fitting) and everything that we adjust on the fitting garment will be also adjusted on DS’s paper pattern too.
Part 3 to be continued…
P.S. it seems the captions are only visible on the desktop brower not on mobile devises such as iPhones and iPads… Strange…
Balance + Shoulder fit
We at B&TAILOR spend most of our time getting the fit of the shoulder and the balance of the jacket right, during fittings (especially at baste and forward fittings).
What I mean by the shoulder fit? The shoulder of the jacket being laid at an angle perpendicular to the ‘overall’ angle of the wearer’s shoulder, and this angle is not 2 dimensional. It also has to account for the wearer’s clavicle shapes and positions but also adjoining flesh and its position and angles in respect to the rest of the upper body. Any bumps or hollows will have to be also accounted for and smoothed out the best they can be.
The balance of the jacket does not simply mean that either end is too short or too long (that is only one of the consequences of the incorrectly balanced jacket). The correct balance is achieved, in a simplistic sense, when a jacket is in perfect balance with the wearer’s stance, perfectly accounting for his or her posture (forward, back or neutral) and the body contours- so that the jacket sits squarely and firmly on the wearer from the collar to the shoulders to the rest, and all the panels of the jacket is in the right angle/position to the body.
The main reason that we do fittings is to achieve the above plus the sleeve pitch (will be discussed on a separate post) right, every time and all the time - one of the main differences to MTM garments that are pre-made.
I have described the both shoulder fit and the balance in a way that I personally think that it would make sense to a lot of people however there are many more aspects of the fit and balance that warrant further discussions (for people who are more interested in such topics).
I am planning to illustrate the above in more depth with actual baste fitting examples in future.
Great thoughts about suit balance for all the nerds out there
B&TAILOR Shoulder - the Seamline
Many Bespeakers opt for padless shoulders nowadays in preference to padded ones.
However this construction (many also refer to it as ‘deconstructed’) requires, for most people, a shoulder seam line to not extend along the natural shoulder line but end further back from the top of the sleeve head as depicted in the above. The reason for that being is that the canvass needs to extend further back covering the entire shoulder over to the back, mimicking the effect of a shoulder pad in order to hide/lesson the effects of imperfections on the shoulder line that are quite prevalent in the modern-day society. Another technique is to extend the chest canvass passed the shoulder seam (normal shoulder seamline) that runs straight from the collar to the top of the sleevehead to achieve the similar effect.
The functional side of the above shoulder seamline aside, I quite like the look of it, especially the curve.
Got to pay more attention to this